The French Revolution set in motion a lot more than a few heads. When the ancien régime was abolished, the turbulence of the new order saw churches closed and the Christmas crib become nativity non-grata. So the religious and resourceful people of southeastern Provence look matters into their own hands. Forbidden to create a public crèche they went private, and started a whole new cultural tradition making small clay figurines at home. Santons, or ‘little saints’ were small, easy to hide, and quirky – and fortunately they didn’t have to stay in the closet for long.

Santons have since become a very popular and purely Provençal art form – a respectful, sometimes rascally reflection of 19th century society. Santonniers did and increasingly do feature more than the Holy Family, the Magi and a few animals in the manger. In minute detail they create candlestick makers, card players, ladies doing laundry, even a siesta in the shade after lunch. This very inclusive Christmas gathering brought hearty spirits to the fête in Saint Maximin-la-Sainte-Baume on the weekend – and to the crowd in attendance, eager to add to their collection. One of the artists I spoke to travelled to Florence to study the faces of angels, but then found fun in sculpting a man in her father’s image, adding a centuries old hearing aid to perhaps help when the modern one wouldn’t. A story close to my heart!

It’s no secret that closed doors can make creators of us all. And that the richness of tradition baked with a modern twist can bring delight. Perhaps that’s the message from the artist who designed the only pétanque game at the fête. Bored and ignored for yet again achieving a zero score, the player resorted to her final move, and turned the other cheek….