Pomme Frites rule in NYC. When the original spot in the East Village blew up a couple of years ago – along with the whole block – loyal customers not only followed the owners to MacDougal Street and reassembled in line, they also chipped in for the move. The secret it seems is not just in the cone wrapped twice-cooked chunky fries, but in the reverence given to the sauce and to the saucing. The line moves slowly, with chattering anticipation, and there is no complaint. Because as soon as you hit the front of the line, there are 30 odd sauces for the tasting. There are mustards and mayo, cheddar and chili, vinegar and Tabasco – all of which can be dolloped on top, layered or tubbed on the side. A red wine, fig and sage mayo sounded as promising as Vietnamese pineapple sounded strange, but hey, when it comes to chips, I’m a tomato sauce girl myself…