Medieval village, modern life

First horses, now bulls, a bakery that has been making communion wafers for Lourdes forever, and a market that makes visiting the artist town of Pernes-les-Fontaines worth it’s weight in asparagus. White or green. 

Who knew that Provence has a tradition of bull running? There are two sides to the story, both rated G, no blood involved. In the Spring when the markets are bursting with goodies, the river bed in Pernes becomes a showcase of skill. Legendary white Camargue horses lead a pack of horn-wrapped bulls through a crowd of young people who admire but nevertheless take challenge in grabbing the bull’s tail and forcing it to the ground. The horses, field-friends of the bulls, protect their cousins. The children, holding forefingers at each side of their head to mimic the bulls, wait for the moment to charge, a rite of passage that could lead to them becoming ‘raseteurs’ in the arena. Being a professional gives a financial reward, for the risk, and for the success of raking a feather from the head of the bull without losing an arm. Did I say no blood? This is not a bull fight in the Spanish sense, the bulls go home for another year of field work, while the raseteurs go on to become dancers or high jumpers. Everyone wins.

The local convent, meanwhile, continues their century old tradition of making communion wafers for the church. It’s a busy time before the bull season, and it’s god’s work. If the bread sold in the old bakery next door is any indication of their craft, I’ll be standing in line come Sunday.   

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11 Responses to Medieval village, modern life

  1. Ebby Peppler's avatar Ebby Peppler says:

    I kinda worry about the poor bulls

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  2. lynda clarke's avatar lynda clarke says:

    Good to hear from you! Long time since your movie communications.🙃🙃


  3. cskerrigan77's avatar cskerrigan77 says:

    Thnak you Gabrielle for these lovely stories and the gorgeous photos. The one with the poppies was amazing! Have you and Sean moved to Provence?

    • Thanks Chris – great to hear! Provence is so amazing – Sean & I already stayed longer than we expected. We’ll be heading back to Italy eventually, I just need to visit a few more markets….

  4. Janet's avatar Janet says:

    keeping old mysterious traditions alive.

  5. Anne Kelley's avatar Anne Kelley says:

    what an interesting story. Thank you so much for keeping in touch

    I hope you will continue sending to my new email address.

    • Absolutely Anne, my pleasure. I am in the process of updating the site, a tenuous prospect if my attempts this week are anything to go by… But hopefully everything will work out. Please let me know if they don’t!

  6. Gabrielle so pleased to find this morning that you have returned with your vivid

    tales – am almost there!

    • Thank you Lisbeth and (almost) happy travels! The weather has started to change, figs are ripening and grapes almost ready to be picked. But for sure you will still need summery clothes and a good appetite…

  7. Glo's avatar Glo says:

    just love the stories n photos as older Brisbane lady been there done that 50 years ago. Just love all.

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