A grape grower in Provence needs more than a good nose. Being nocturnal helps, as does a farmer’s patience, hard work and instinct. Membership in the local wine co-op is also a distinct advantage, providing for families an economic embrace that rivals the power of a Grande Domaine. But nothing, not one thing, will be of any value without a solid reversing technique on your tractor. This is the cornerstone of viticulture, the unpublished curriculum in oenology, the secret ingredient to winemaking success. Because if you can’t get your grapes into the winery in the first place, you’ll never get to claim that fabulous wine as your own.

The romance of rosé roused Sean & I at 3am this week to drive into the dark limestone hills of Correns. The lingering heat of the summer threatened the delicacy of the vintage, so grapes had to be picked in the cool of the night and transported immediately to the winery. Brightly lit tractors, laden trailers in tow, were already on the road, leading us with well practised manoeuvres through the town’s narrow streets to the buzzing winery. Rosé rush hour. As one tractor reversed to release a glistening mountain of grenache into the crusher, another repositioned his trailer to collect the stalks of his deposited grapes. They signed off their loads, and then raced off to collect another.

The winemaker was expecting us – although not my cake – saying he was looking forward to a jambon ‘dinner’ at 8am. The generosity of his time for us was all the more precious considering his multitasking with the overnight team of 3. Grapes were 18C on arrival, which had to be reduced to 8C for optimum results. The quality of the vintage would depend on the action of these few days, and there were 30 growers in the coop depending on them. When I asked Julien what would the wine be like if the heat won, he grimaced with one word – orange! 

The vineyard is 100% organic – Correns was the first official organic village in France – and solar panels on the roof provide all the energy the winery needs. In this modern mission, backed by state of the art equipment and technology, camaraderie adds the magic. As did Christophe when he invited us to his vineyard. Following him along a winding country road, the night sky full of stars, we were suddenly confronted by a huge luminous creature gorging grapes in the dark. The sight was breathtaking, a dazzling harvester whirring over the vines, a sticky whirlwind of juice spraying in its aftermath. So this is where the wild things are! It was all we could do to jump on board and take a ride.

It is worthy that ‘culture’ is included with the word viti to describe the work that ultimately gives us wine. In this part of the world the words are one and the same, rosé is synonymous with Provence. The altar wine at the 18th century baroque style church in Correns is apparently the envy of the region – we called in to light a candle for the vintage, and for all those patient driving instructors who will ensure a rosy future for this special place. Santé!