Troglodytes and a holy trinity of visions may translate to extraordinary hotel tariffs, but nothing, it seems, is ordinary in Cotignac. This medieval town, voted one of the prettiest in France, boasts picturesque cobblestone paths climbing to cliff-face fortifications, fabulous markets (including a flea market with the most envied fleas in the country) and, befittingly, a bakery whose profiteroles make all others seem a little passé. Opening the door to Lou Gourmandises is a superman experience, you go in as a mild-mannered reporter, and minutes later, the sky is the limit. Be warned, if you also indulge in an apple tart and an expresso, you might need a bigger cape.
Cotignac today is popular with British expats, Audi drivers and market lovers. Olive oil is a regional specialty and Brad Pitt is the owner of the local manor. But the town itself, with so much history and cultural association, is it’s own special place. At the end of the day, sitting in a cafe under the plane trees lining the market square and watching the world go by, is a singular joy.
A few hundred years has passed since Louis XIV visited Cotignac, but somehow I felt I walked in his footprint through the markets. Not with the same slippers of course, although with the gilding and the monogram he may have been more comfortable in my sneakers. But the calibre and variety of offerings – puppets, figurines, lamé scarves and glistening crystal – despite being somewhat plebeian, could still have sparked an artistic whimsey to entertain a sun king. His purpose of visiting, with his mother, was to give thanks for his birth. I did the same, thanks Mum, let’s see what we can do next…






Ah, la Provence….! And to think that so many in the world think that France is only Paris and the Eiffel Tower…!
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Indeed…! But not for long methinks, once the secret comes out that Van Gogh didn’t paint ‘The Starry Night’ in Paris…..
The “lame scarf” confused me momentarily until I realised what the word was 🤪 but so enjoyed your photos and evocative prose!
Still in bed here 5.55am with my little cat asleep on the doona and a big sun 🌞 about to jump up in a clear sky this Tuesday , I could almost hear the vocal bustle of that market and grab a pastry 🥮 Chrissy
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Fixed! Lamé is no longer lame! Merci!
Always love h sting about your fabulous adventures. This town sounds so lovely x🙏☀️
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Thanks Bernadette – you would love these little villages, they are all distinctive in their own way – and picture perfect. Sometimes I feel like we’re in a movie set….
Definately adding this place to my list to visit, looks beautiful
Absolutely Amanda – it is definitely list worthy. Let’s see what else I can add….
Hi Gabrielle,
Love reading your blog & updates!
Heading to Montpellier in a week to catch up with Marion, how far away are you to catch up with?
Love Bronnie
Bronnie! Not far! Let me email you some details…..