The deer that play hide and seek in the surrounding vineyards always win. Their enviable agility bounces them out of frame just as I focus in, the only proof of sighting being the footprints they leave behind. But this weekend, Bambi beware. Thousands of people are venturing into the vineyards for a frolic – more formally known as expériences œnotouristiques culturelles – a cultural wine tourism experience – and you may have some competition.

Choosing where to start with the 150 experiences on offer was a sticky choice. Rosé reigns queen in this part of Provence, so to find a sweet wine in readiness for Sean’s anticipated tarte tatin triumph, we sought the advice of our Co-op friends, which was, unequivocally, Chateau Sainte-Croix. The drive there was spectacular, winding through forested hills and vineyards, glistening gold in the autumn sunshine. Getting lost was a bonus, taking potential options for the weekend to 151, to include exploring what would have been the extensive landholdings of Thoronet Abbey‘s Trappist monks. When we did arrive, we were in the perfect place for a much needed glass of wine. Not surprisingly, the multi-medalled Rosé was sold out, but the delightful Jessica treated us to another first, (152), giving us a tour of the winery and a taste of blushing jus, fresh from the tank. Chateau Sainte-Croix has 13 grape varieties and a full range of wines developed over the last 100 years, with the father of the most recent generation happy to have his shadow taken. A shy producer of outstanding wine.

With a bottle of the delicious muscat in hand, we took a well signed road home, pausing on the side of a lake to watch a couple of fisherman enjoying the peace. There was not a lot of action, and fish don’t leave footprints, but my guess is that they all got away. Or maybe the men didn’t even have their lines baited, maybe their fishing basket was actually a picnic basket full of cheese, and there was a bottle of something delicious chilling in the water at their feet. That’s 153 and counting….