The closest a melting Australian can get to Coogee Beach in the middle of a New York heat wave is to score a table at Ruby’s. This beach-like cafe in the heart of Nolita offers a menu that reads like the NSW coastline from Blueys to Bronte, and makes it seem strangely possible that the Pacific could be lapping through the al fresco doors onto Mulberry Street.

Established by two Australian guys with an ambition to take beach culture to the world, the cafe has a reputation for burgers that challenges the best of the local variety – and with no bun. The squashed artisanal style bread makes ‘the Bronte’ – Ruby’s signature burger – seem even bigger. But it is the Whaley – the burger with the lot, that challenges the status quo. Pineapple was unfortunately missing when Sean’s order arrived – perhaps the South American kitchen crew thought it was a culinary contradiction. But the full house showed that Australians, with their sense of humour and way of life, are embraced by NYC. Maybe New Yorkers want to feel that sea breeze, or maybe they are lining up for the soup of the day…