Donuts and dough

‘Peter Pan’ is a fitting name for a sweet destination that never seems to change or get any older. But then as far as donut shops in NYC go, it is already old! Located in Green Point in Brooklyn, this bakery has been making donuts for over 60 years, and everything – the decor, the shelves, the signs, the Happy days uniforms – and perhaps even some of the customers, have not changed since the doors opened.

The area itself is something of a time and culture capsule. Hipsters have not yet drifted in, so the 4.30am opening at Peter Pans welcoming the last and the first working shifts of the day will hold for the duration. Down the street is Father Jerzy Popieluszko Square, and over the road Kielbasa / Sr-Kraut / Potatoe features on the menu of a busy diner. Polish is the first language for many of the residents – including the girls on the counter at Peter Pan. But the owners are actually Italian and recognizing Donna at the back of the shop from her documentary, I made my selection thoughtfully.

Donuts at Peter Pan are classic varieties – that is, cake, yeast, crumbs and cruller, with the most popular flavors being red velvet, chocolate sprinkles and sour cream. They are also classic is size and cost when compared to their Manhattan cousins. Three Peter Pans at $1.10 would equal the price of one Donut Plant, and apart from the latter’s delicious but ever diminishing ‘creme brûlée’, the same ratio would almost work for size. Three Peter Pans would also weigh against one Dough, although cost cannot really come into this comparison. Give me one Dough against three Peter Pans – or any number of Doughnut Plants any day. And that covers various flavors – chocolate, Hibiscus, almond – at least as of today, January 20th. NYC is constantly changing and using donuts as a currency means having to allow for market changes. In fact there is a new yet-to-be-tasted Donut Project in the news, introducing a maple bacon bar and a ricotta filled beetroot glazed donut. They may not have a sixty year potential but hmmmm, stay turned…


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