Politics and public libraries

Where else but the New York Public Library would you find such an interesting political discussion as we recently enjoyed between Oliver Stone and Tariq Ali…? The conversation was part of a program at the NYPL with a mission ‘to provoke, engage, enlighten, instigate, and agitate the mind’. They certainly succeeded! Oliver Stone’s politics was well known to us through his films like ‘Wall Street’, ‘Platoon’ and ‘JFK’, and when Tarik Ali opened their discussion by saying he was in North Vietnam with Bertrand Russell and John Paul Sartre as observers in the 60’s at the same time that Stone was in South Vietnam engaging in combat, I knew we would find common ground.

After all the hoop la and ‘holier than thou’ rhetoric with the run up to the Republican nomination, not to mention the disillusionment in the hope that was Obama, it was very refreshing to hear two intellectuals talk candidly about the state of American politics and the world. Both had amazing memories for detail, and discussed the impact on the present of forgotten, or deliberately buried episodes of history. I madly made mental notes, especially of the books they mentioned and on top of my reading list is now ‘ JFK and the unspeakable: Why he died and why it matters’.  They talked about oil and war, about Italy and Greece putting the running of their countries in the hands of big banks, and about Bush having to plan his overseas trips with caution so the ICC does not get to detain him for war crimes.

Coming away I was sparking with the inspiration of hearing such studied, impassioned conversation. Despite the hard core reality of their comments, I somehow felt optimistic and empowered. No doubt about it, education is forever ongoing and libraries are the perfect place to foster it. And you can always pick up a good book on the way out….

Posted in events | Tagged , , | 1 Comment

Snow!

I woke up to the sound of the snow ploughs this morning, the Chrysler Building was a white out and the temperature was below zero. This was our view from the warm side of the window….

Posted in the view from here | Leave a comment

Chikalicious

It has been a real foodie week here in the Big Apple with super fancy grilled cheese, bee hive cakes and freshly baked olive and feta pretzels. But the creme de la creme, all time superior, work-of-art, in a league of their own taste sensations, were the desserts we had on my birthday. Chikalicious launched about the same time Sean & I came to New York. A Japanese woman of immeasurable patience and skill opened her small and stylish desserts-only restaurant in 2003, and I was struck how very ‘New York’ the concept was. Where else could a 4 night a week, 20 seater, specialty restaurant survive? ( ….in Tokyo it seems – a sister restaurant just opened there last year… ) In any case, Chikalicious is a very special place to go, one that requires a zen approach and much respect.

The ‘cheesecake’, a fromage blanc island served on a bed of crushed ice, and the warm chocolate tart are staples on the menu. So, knowing we could come back, we opted for two seasonal specialties, the Eclair of earl grey tea and vanilla sorbet with kumquat confit, and the Yogurt panna cotta with fresh pomegranate sorbet and crispy kataifi. The first was served with an orange muscat and the second with a glass of Brachetto d’Acqui Banfi. Even as I write this I think how austere it all sounds. This is something you consume, voluntarily…? I go back to zen. As we waited, with Louis Armstrong playing joyfully in the background and the full room buzzing quietly, our smiling Japanese host brought two small dishes to the table. Both contained a perfect small quenelle of coconut sorbet sitting on top of a miniature slice of kiwifruit. A perfect white egg on a perfect slice of green. I felt like I had been served a dish of wisdom by a culinary Buddhist. The taste was exquisite.

The desserts that followed were magnificent, and even though I would never normally consider any food that wobbles, the panna cotta ( with the pomegranate sorbet ) was extraordinary. Unfortunately, it was so cold that night that the battery on my camera drained quickly and I was only able to capture a shot of our aperitif. So I will have to go back and get proof of the Matisse, validation of the Van Gogh. Fortunately this will be soon. Until then, remember to mediate on your desserts…..

Posted in Food | Tagged | 1 Comment

Bees and Pretzels

If there is a good reason for winter, it must surely be bakeries! In a walking tour of the best around Tompkins Square Park last week, we discovered the source of the delicious looking pretzels we had seen at the city’s festive food stalls in December. Sigmund’s Pretzels is a very unassuming place on Avenue B ( & 3rd ) in Alphabet City. In fact we would have walked straight past if I didn’t have it marked on my map, and if I didn’t have the excess energy buzzing around my body after merely breathing the sweet air of the Black Hound two streets previous. Oh dear, another great discovery! But before sweet there was plenty of savoury to consider – olive and feta, bacon and shallot or pretzels rolled in sunflower seeds. There were also the huge pretzels that you see on the carts around town, and pretzel rolls that looked delicious. With a steaming strong coffee it was a perfect way to fortify against the cold, especially as we still had Veniero’s on our list. Stay tuned….

Posted in bakeries | Tagged | Leave a comment

Little Muenster

You can’t help but say cheese at Little Muenster, a clever new culinary spot on the lower east side. Picture superior cheese pairings with appropriate condiments inside buttery grilled country style bread from upstate new York, and then add the aroma of their toasting and you are on your way to cheese heaven. Of course there is no shortage of good food in New York, but it’s fantastic to see a new place open that is different, that doesn’t try to do burgers and french toast better than anyone else, but tries something original. And good. Vanessa used to work in her family’s gourmet deli – in the cheese section of course, where she played with the idea of making great cheeses available in an everyday situation. Enter partner & chef Adam, and they started to cultivate the idea…

Flash forward to Stanton Street where a chandelier made from dozens of shiny silver graters lights the room, cheese boards stack one on top of the other to create a menu space, and a tiny mouse-door going into the kitchen adds good humour ( like the holes in the business cards ) that the owners abound in. Even if you weren’t already a cheese devotee, their enthusiasm would make it so.  It took two years just to find the spot, and quite a few 14 hour days to launch, but what a unique menu and a thoughtful presentation they have. We tried the gruyere / chevre / leek confit & pancetta with the most delicious tomato soup I have ever tasted and then our hosts insisted we try the stilton / muenster & pear puree combo. Fabulous. A cheese board in a grilled sandwich. And a glass of wine to go with it. How civilized!

Posted in Food | Tagged | Leave a comment

Frozen Speedos

It was minus 9*C this morning which resulted in my speedos getting freeze dried on the balcony. But I got off lightly. It would have been much worse if I’d stayed too long at the celebrations to mark the opening of the Downtown REI sports store on Saturday…..

Posted in the view from here, Uncategorized | Leave a comment

Blue Note

One of my new year’s resolutions is to experience more jazz in New York. It seems strange to have to make this a formal pursuit when I have such passion for the music, and when the city offers so much, but being an early morning riser puts me out of sync with most venues. By it’s nature jazz is not usually played at matinees! We’ve been to the Charlie Parker Jazz festival a couple of times, and heard Wynton Marsalis at the Lincoln Center, but last week we decided to venture out to the Blue Note in Greenwich Village. The Blue Note is famous, and I am probably the last person in the world who claims to love jazz to finally go there. The enticement came in the form of Jack Dejohnette who was celebrating his 70th birthday with his band at the Club, ahead of being inducted into the jazz world’s hall of fame, the NEA Jazz Masters. He sounded just my style when I heard him interviewed on the radio, so I booked a couple of seats and looked forward to getting my groove on….

There are usually 2 sessions at the club, 8pm or 10.30, and you can be assured of a table if you book ahead. Otherwise you queue on the night for a spot at the bar. Even though we arrived an hour early, the place was packed and we were relegated to a small table on the far side behind the bongo drums. We were not fussed – who needs to see at a jazz session? The clientele was a mixed bag of old and young ( a boy sitting next to me played ‘plants and zombies’ on his nintendo but at the time I didn’t realise this was prophetic ). People were ordering dinner and the wine list was quite formidable – there was not a cask of red or ( of course ) a cigarette in sight.

Mr Dejohnette arrived with his band, dedicating the preamble to talk about his new CD and then introducing each member of his band of 5 as “the incredible…..”. That included the bongo player in front of us and the very stylish electric bass player. There was a hush and when they started to play, my initial joy quickly changed to despair as the eclectic, esoteric, not-my-kind-of-jazz filled the room. But I was on my own, the audience loved it. They tapped and rocked as each band member went into a frenzy of instrumentation as though jamming on their own. I could hear my music-loving father saying – ‘I’m sure it would be great it they were all playing the same tune’. It became louder and louder and LOUDER. The grin on the face of the bongo player grew to joker proportions as he shook huge strings of bells, blew whistles, and pounded any surface within distance of his hands and feet.  So much noise! This was not the pure elegant sound of Winton or Louis. I was in the wrong place, everyone was in a trance except me. Just as that hit home, and the creepy smile of the bongo guy suddenly looked directly at me, all I could think was the Wickerman! Get out of there Mr Woodwood – they are on to you! So that’s exactly what I did, Sean did not need any encouragement, we grabbed our coats and fled.

PS. Please be assured that the Blue Note is an excellent venue and Mr Dejohnette is an outstanding artist in his field. It’s just that I realise I am more of an uptown jazz girl than a Greenwich Village disciple, and next time I’ll do more homework. After all, jazz is still on my list for 2012.

Posted in events | Leave a comment

Thank you very mulch

Being a gardener at this time of the year in New York is a bit like being a childless parent. You feel all the responsibility without having anything visible to care for. The leaves have fallen, the soil is frozen ( at least it usually is – this year is exceptionally warm ) and there is nothing to prune or potter with. However, this weekend provided a new opportunity for nurturing. Riding through Tompkins Square Park yesterday we were suddenly surrounded with the superb smell of fresh pine. We followed our noses and found a community event, where people were invited to bring their undecorated christmas trees for the park people to shred. The park would then use what they could for their own purposes and the rest was up for grabs. Even if you didn’t have a tree to offer, you were encouraged to bag up the mulch and take it home. So that’s exactly what we did, inspiring an unprecedented mid-winter gardening spree. The result is Norsca in Mid-town. Julienne of Christmas tree , which includes the occasional glimmer of tinsel, blanket my plants inside and out and the smell is to die for. It is gloriously satisfying to have had an afternoon talking to my sleeping garden, and just in case winter does come, everyone is rugged up in festive attire. Christmas lives on in the Big Apple!

Posted in events | 1 Comment

Happy New Year with strawberry butter

It was like Spring here for the first day of 2012, with absolutely glorious sunshine and blue skies. Riding through Central Park, everyone was out to enjoy the day. Locals and tourists were walking without coats and gloves – even the ducks seemed amazed that they were swimming rather than skating. Had it been typical of this time of the year, we would never have contemplated the late run on brunch and the queue that would normally keep us in the cold for 30 minutes. But today we relaxed in the company of strangers outside  ‘Good enough to eat‘ on the upper west side, patiently waiting our turn. In the end we had a choice of the table by the door, or in the hidden alcove behind the cake cabinet. That’s a choice? Of course we took the alcove, which somehow enhanced our experience, viewing the entire restaurant through a landscape of lavishly layered cakes.

‘Good Enough to Eat’ is an earthy local eatery on Amsterdam and 83rd known for it’s pancakes and it’s hash. I’ve always been a big fan of comfort food, but this whole place is comfortable – Human League seem to have been playing happily since the place opened in their heyday, the ambiance is casual and warm, and there are cows peering down contentedly from all aspects of the room. On top of that the food is generous in flavour and size, with an unmistakable handmade freshness. I went for the special – lemon poppyseed pancakes topped with strawberries and banana, and served with bacon, maple syrup and strawberry butter. Success! The pancakes were superbly light and the strawberry butter was unusual and delicious. I took a photo before I added the maple syrup – no-one should know how much I like maple syrup on pancakes…

Posted in Food | Tagged | 3 Comments

Crazy for Christmas

Just as well Christmas started early in New York, otherwise I would have missed my favorite part of the festivities – anticipation! With the Vegas job keeping us out of town for most of December, it was opportune that the city started dressing for Christmas well in advance. Macy’s was well baubled from Halloween, the Rockefeller Christmas Tree went up at the end of November when Obama was in town and the Salvation Army have been energizing the crowds with their rock and roll carols since Thanksgiving. ( They took credit cards this year! )

If there is one thing I really love about Christmas in New York, it’s the atmosphere at the markets. Even though the farmers have less produce to offer, there is an abundance of hot apple cider and the spicy cinnamon aromas mixed with the smell of freshly cut pine trees make for a real festive fix. We stopped off at Union Square to share the quest of people choosing their Christmas trees and having them trimmed and tied for the journey home. You could buy prebundled real trees from street side vendors all over the city, but at Union Square it was a delight to see people pausing and measuring up the type and the size of the tree, or, in giving in to the size of their apartment, opting for a sprig for the front door instead. According to the Australian guy helping out with the transactions, these trees do not shed their needles, so they stay intact throughout the season, until they are collected by the Central Park trucks and mulched for the sake of tucking in those that shine less bright for longer.

Father Christmas was also on the move early this season, being spotted on the subway, trying to catch cabs and even trying to balance on my bicycle. But despite the craziness of all the Santas, the sparkle of decorations and the allure of shop windows, my absolute favorite part of Christmas this year happened in the middle of the night. We flew in from Vegas at about 10pm on Christmas Eve, exhausted but so happy to be back in the big apple. The city was quiet, and there was no-one on the street apart from cabs. Just as we were about to drift off to sleep at midnight, the church bells on Park Avenue started to chime with ‘Joy to the World’. I felt as though the city was welcoming us home and sharing a special secret moment. It suddenly felt like Christmas !

Posted in events | Leave a comment