Fear of pizza

The Baldizzi family have given NYC a lot to be grateful for. In the time capsule that is now the Tenement Museum and was the family’s home after the first world war, visitors can see the origins of Italian-American culture. But it almost didn’t happen. Lawmakers, anxious that the homogeneity of America was being threatened by the arrival of too many Catholic Italians, (+ Asians and Jews ), closed the door selectively to these immigrants in 1924. Momma mia! So Adolfo & Rosario came uninvited and joined other newcomers in the tiny apartments of Orchard Street on the Lower East Side just a few years before the building was condemned and closed up for over 50 years.

Amazingly, there is no smell. At least not now – imagine what it was like when they jimmied open the doors in 1988? Forty layers of paint, soot and sweat. Some rooms have been left in the decrepit style in which they were found, while others have been restored to show life as it was. The floor still squeaks and the doors open between apartments – it was communal living at its best. You can even run your hand down the same wooden staircase that all those 20 families did in the dark years ago, but fortunately the 4 toilets they shared in the back yard are no longer part of the experience.

The educator on our tour had many stories to tell, the best being about Josephine, the Baldazzi’s daughter. Apparently she knocked on the door soon after the Museum opened and asked why they were giving tours through her old house? Now a grandmother living in Brooklyn, Josephine filled in a lot of historical gaps, talking about eating egg rolls around the kitchen table and listening to Italian opera on the radio. Imagine New York without the Baldizzi’s, imagine New York without pizza? Fuhgeddaboudit!

( No photography is allowed in the museum – all photos here are provided courtesy of the Tenement Museum )

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Baldizzi kitchen - Keiko Niwa

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Stranded by books

The Strand is no ordinary bookshop. It is more a NYC destination where book lovers congregate, where you can peruse old and new papered treasures, find staff recommendations on a good read, wear something out of print, meet Kazuo Ishiguro or Peppa Pig, or simply breathe in history. This iconic cornerstone on Broadway and 12th has been flourishing for nearly 90 years, and as fast as new purchases pour out the front door, old books are recycled back through the side, ensuring that 18 miles of books will be a permanent, if not increasing, boast by the establishment.

A booklined stairwell connects the labyrinth of the basement to the busy fictional floor and then to the children’s and art books upstairs. Days could be dedicated to learning how to draw mustaches 20 different ways, to the seclusion of poet’s corner, to finding first and last editions, and to finding the perfect gift for the vampire or the troublemaker in your life. Something for everyone! And if you have a very special request, like finding a book that would originally have been read by candle-light, then the Strand has that too.

Above the physical flow of the bookshop and accessible only by elevator is the rare book collection. Here you find yourself in an austere atmosphere, surrounded by first editions and unique books that belong in caring hands. Like those of my guide, who had studied ancient religions and spoke in a hushed reverent voice about secret fore-edge paintings and the Gutenberg Press. One such relic from 1480 was behind glass in a sturdy vault standing protectively next to the store owners favorite book – which, at $45,000 will probably remain in his company forever. Binding one of the Limited Editions Club’s famous collaborations, James Joyce and Matisse were paired in the late 1930’s in an illustrated version of Ulysses. There were to be 1500 signed copies, but apparently when Matisse illustrated the book with inspiration drawn from Homer rather than Joyce, the Irishman stopped signing in disgust at 250 copies. Maybe Matisse was taking artistic license, or maybe he didn’t want to go downstairs and do his homework…

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Fur and fame

The cat walk and the dog walk had equal billing in NYC this week with fashion week and the Westminster Dog Show showcasing faux and fur. Central to the latter was the Hotel Pennsylvania on seventh avenue, which has kenneled the best and fairest for many years. The hotel caters specifically to canine clients, with an in-house doggy menu, a specially situated relief station on the lower ground floor, and an on-hand photographer working around the clock. Funniest of all is that dogs and their best friends descend on the hotel from all over the country so there were mountain dogs, great danes and boxes of toys waiting to check in alongside carers, groomers and admirers – it was more like a carnival than a competition.

The stakes are high. While people I spoke to came for the pride of it ( one woman drove from Phoenix because the marvelous mush on her champion could have been damaged in crated flight ), the opportunity for immortality nevertheless makes for emotional moments. A competitor with yellow arm-band and leopard-skin coated whippet rushed to the lift without a moment to pose or pause for a treat. Perhaps the lucrative commercial contracts of winners eluded them – maybe mixing with other celebs at Sardi’s or the walk-on part in the Broadway hit musical ‘Kinky Boots’ was now out of the park for them. But there’s always next year. Just look at how fellow dog-lover Patti Hearst ( who won with her shih tzu called Rocket ) made a comeback after 1974.

Back on the street a curly haired retriever was taking in the sights after a winning tour down under in Brisbane. He wasn’t fussed at two fashionista’s being stranded by the parking police – with a perfect coat and a practiced point he had a show to go to…

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The Presidential birthday

Valentines Day and President’s Day rarely fall on the same holiday, but in some ways they fall on the same page. For the long weekend just past, the shops were full of sales during the day and the restaurants were full of lovers at night. The monetizing of love and history seems overwhelming, but even so, the offerings in the shop at the New York Public Library make you think twice. Profit or patriotism? Mixed in with all the beautiful books and educational gift items, you can buy a stars & stripes bowtie, fridge magnets with presidential quotes, decks of knowledge cards profiling every state, socks emblazoned with John F Kennedy and Abraham Lincoln, or a silk tie printed with the portraits of all the American presidents. This really is wearing your loyalties front and center…

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Valentines and Verses

The 16,000 flowers that collectively adorn the Viacom Building in a new installation in Times Square must have been ordered well in advance of Valentine’s Day. Just out of physical reach of my seasonally deprived gardening fingers, these fabulous flowers were uplifted before they could be bunched for lucrative lovers. Otherwise there would not have been a rose within cooee. As it was, kangaroo paw, proteas and banksias were contracted to bring the ‘outside in’ – even though in the midst of the current freeze it was more like bringing down under up over. But the colors and shadows are a sculpture in the making – they are ephemeral and everlasting at the same time. Let’s wish the same for all the lovers in the world, including those that choose hops to heliconias…

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Frozen melting moment

Who needs roses when you have crystals….? frozen flora

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Tea and Sympathy

A cup of tea and a good lie down seemed the best remedy for the latest chocolate news to hit NYC. Winter storms may come and go ( or not ) but chocolate withdrawal can do permanent damage. As of now all Cadbury confections made in Britain will no longer be available in the US. It seems that Hersheys has flexed it’s trademark muscle to ensure only Cadbury made under the US umbrella will be available on this side of the pond. Apart from the slap of stolen identity in a cultural sense, the contents are counterfeit. The local recipe has sugar at the top of the list of ingredients ( as opposed to milk on the English recipe ) and adds various ingredients to increase the shelf life of the soon to be not-so-much-in-demand sweet.

Queen of the bastion of Britishness on Greenwich Street, Nicky Perry, says that life is hard enough without losing our chocolate. Her cafe was politely packed when I called in yesterday, as the fish and chip shop would later be. But her Carry On grocery was starting to see gaps in the shelves as patriots and connoisseurs stock pile the genuine article. Crunchies, Flakes and Kit Kats were still available, but will soon become the bounty of mail order merchants.

The good news is that high tea as an institution and practice looks safe forever.  Tea and Sympathy, with thin-lipped cups and perfectly pouring tea pots was rich with the sight of cream cakes, scones and cucumber sandwiches. There was not a cell phone in sight as people talked and took tea. Ah the delight of a sanctum of civilization. Just as the name of the cafe serves the sentiment within, maybe the name of the fish and chip shop, A Salt and Battery, will deter any further infringement on British tradition…

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Eccentric friendly

There will be no corn beef and cabbage at this year’s St Patrick’s Day celebrations in the East Village. At least not if you are going to the party hosted by John Casey. Irish whiskey will be more welcome for the toast to his country’s patron saint, as it is perpetually, including John’s other annual open house, bah-humbug Christmas, the decorations for which were still up when I visited his shop today. But that is hardly surprising as John’s rubber stamp store on 11th Street is a unique combination of museum and modernity. It is a curiosity shop full of wit and wisdom – the sign on the front door says it all.

When John first came to the East Village in the late sixties, it was not safe to walk down the street in the daytime let alone at night. Things have obviously changed since then – in some ways at least. Drug vendors still have a go at getting stamps made ( there was an order ‘busted’ while I was there ) and the machinery for making the stamps is from the fifties. If you can draw it, or imagine it, John can make a stamp out of it. In fact he says some of his best work is from reading people’s minds. John is busier now than ever and even though photoshop and computers enable the process, he still uses rubber rather than plastic for the stamps, and it all happens there right before your eyes.

The man himself is a charming Irishmen. When are they not? He was shy to have his photograph taken when he hadn’t combed his hair, but talked with a gorgeous authenticity about the village. Sometimes he takes special visitors to Veniero’s, the century old Italian cafe down the street. On Tuesday nights he goes to Mona’s for jazz, a regular pleasure for over seven years, starting before midnight and grooving on until about four in the morning. That’s the joy of keeping artistic hours in the village, John said, it doesn’t matter what time you get to work on Wednesday…

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Al dente

Indecision is a terrible thing. On a freezing day this week when coffee and hot chocolate were alluring alternatives around the hot spots of the Flatiron, the best decision finally came spontaneously. Pasta! Sean and I were only slightly peckish when we crossed Eataly‘s hearth of hospitality, but by the time we wandered through all the color and collective deliciousness of their maze di mangiare, we were starving. Maybe that’s why there is a little trattoria at the back, tucked in behind the fresh bread and homemade pasta. The designers knew that by the time you found that, the smell would be the last straw.

Ragout always speaks to me. Calls out actually, no competition, no need for an actual menu. But our waiter was full of suggestions regardless. Despite looking Italian, he said, he was actually Puerto Rican, and so believed in free shots. Wine glasses quickly ensued with generous tastings of possible pairings. His spiel may have been said repeatedly to every guest every day, but it didn’t matter, it was entertainment and fun. And that was before the giant cheese grater even arrived. Pizza and pasta were offered side by side from separate kitchens which means they may arrive unsynchronized. But hey, it was a pasta day and it was delicious.

Desert was not on the menu. That is, the movable feast that is Eataly demands you walk between courses and find a new venue for afters. This was not difficult, and the gentle exercise found reward in a hazelnut mousse with whole nuts and a thin crunch of chocolate – with a wafer-small expresso of course…

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(White) Australia Day

The lights were on but no-one was home for Australia Day celebrations last night in the Big Apple. The Empire State Building closed early along with the parks and stores, the subway wasn’t running, there were no restaurants open, and finding batteries was a bigger priority than barbecues. Nevertheless, the incoming storm did ensure that for once New York had a January long weekend! For the city that never sleeps, we came close. All denominations and demographics recognize a state of emergency, so by this morning the only activity on the streets were snow shovelers and tourists. Times Square hosted a couple of camera crews while truckloads of salt trundled along behind the non-stop ploughs, but for most of us it was playtime…

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