Hercules was not the hurricane we were expecting. Instead of the fury of 56 KM winds and zero visibility, we awoke to a feathery stillness on Friday morning with a good six inches of snow and glorious blue skies and sunshine. The snow had sprinkled all night in true icing-sugar fashion, and was so fairy light, we could hardly form a decent snow ball. So Majella’s inaugural snow fight was more like a powdering than a pounding, and the snowman had to be happy without a neck. It was the perfect end to fabulous family festivities as my gorgeous niece is now in transit back to Australia and will soon be exchanging snow for sand. Bonne fest, happy days and thank God the world is round…
Hurricane Hercules
Happy New Year!
New York City is sparkling with welcome for the new year. An exhibition at the MET showcases the artwork of the famously private and eccentric jeweler JAR who ironically uses more than glass in his one-of-a-kind pieces. Sapphires, fire opals, rubies, amethyst, diamonds, gold …. it is a treasure trove of precious stones that have caused some controversy for the curators but which nevertheless contribute to an extraordinary display. It is gaudy and gorgeous at the same time – a bit like new year’s eve celebrations can be – and who can resist a little sparkle? Not even the freezing cold could keep me from venturing up to our roof for the flashing colours welcoming in 2014. This year is going to be a beauty – let’s see what we can do with it…!
Christmas Cherubs
The snails at Columbus Circle were setting the pace for the Christmas crowds in Manhattan on the weekend. At the intersection of the Rockefeller Center, Saks and St Patrick’s Cathedral, the rivers of revelers spilled from the pavement onto the outside lanes of Fifth Avenue and brought tyred traffic to a standstill. With the opportunity to ice-skate, enjoy the window displays and give thanks, the crowds ebbed and flowed as opportunity allowed, but invariably jostled for a souvenir picture in front of the tree. The 75 foot Norway Spruce has been a pageant like prize since 1931 and an intrinsic part of the New York Christmas experience – although there is another tree, much less hallowed but much more enchanting, just up the road…
At the Metropolitan Museum of Art, a blue spruce is adorned with 18th century cherubs and angels, and with music of the same vintage filling the hall, the unique collection of creche figures surrounding the tree seem to come to life. This amazing assemblage is the legacy of Loretta Hines Howard, who started collecting in 1924 and then conceived of the idea to bring the religious and the decorative together, and so began a tradition that her daughter and then her daughter continues. Each year new pieces are added to the collection and even though the Nativity and the Magi have center stage, there is always room for the turbaned, the tanned and more townspeople – plus the odd elephant and flock of sheep. Each piece is a work of art, handmade and enriched with embroidery or jewels or daggers, depending on the character. I wonder about the delight of one woman who passionately pursued this unique collection and then gifted it to the MET for everyone to enjoy. But with all those cherubs and angels, I also wonder about Christmas at the Howards in the early days – just imagine how big the tree had to be….!
Magic menagerie
Gabrielle blowing her horn is always a welcome sight – especially when she is heralding in Christmas at the Rockefeller Center. But her piping has conjured up more magic than usual this year – Fifth Avenue is bejeweled with curious creatures. Cartier contrasts a golden jaguar with crimson ribbon, a glittering gekko glowers over Bvlgari, Henri Bendel hosts an ostrich hiding in haberdashery and Berdorf’s boasts a galah front and center of it’s famously dressed windows. The walk is an adventure in itself, although the windows at Saks tell their own tale. Like the pages of a book, one window leads to another telling the artful story of the young yeti who sets off from his snowy home for New York, seeking adventure with a camera and a map. Hmmmmm, sounds familiar….. but how will it end? According to the windows, you ain’t seen nothing yeti….
Coats and candles
Meeting and knowing women who bring warmth and light into the world has been one of the great privileges of my life. But it was nevertheless serendipitous to meet Suzanne Davis on the celebration day of Santa Lucia, when she was setting up shop in Grand Central Station before the busy commute of Friday morning. Suzanne had the bright idea 25 years ago to provide comfort to cold New Yorkers by encouraging people to donate their old or excess coats. She teamed up with New York Cares, the largest volunteer management organization in the city, to devise a system whereby people can take their old coats to police stations and drop-off points to be sorted and filtered through 400 registered non-profit shelters. Last year a record 123,000 coats were recycled through the system. Hats off to Suzanne.
Santa Lucia would definitely have approved. On December 13th, in a festival of lights and renewal, Scandinavians celebrate her bringing light into the winter darkness. A young woman in white robes wears a crown of lit candles on her head and, as at Scandinavia House last night, sings traditional songs with a procession of carolers. Those lit candles may have caused some consternation, but on a freezing night it was as though the Christmas angels had come to life.
Unfortunately another tradition was broken this year with the MTA not giving free advertising on the subway and buses for the coat drive. Donations have fallen drastically. So come on Aussie come on – if you are heading back to the glorious summer of Australia and no longer need that heavy coat, call into the local precinct or see Suzanne next to track 17….
Frozen Skyline
In case you are wondering what clothes to bring to NYC this Christmas, you’ll need more than your Speedos. An hour on the balcony after my swim this morning and my bathers didn’t dry, they froze!
The Cloisters
On the very northern-most tip of Manhattan overlooking the Hudson River, The Cloisters have the space and grace of an medieval abbey. In fact, the building is part of the Metropolitan Museum and was only built in the 1930’s. But its construction was a collaboration of 5 cloistered abbeys from Europe, taken apart brick by brick and reassembled with collective richness to house ancient tapestries and sculptures, and more recently, a spectacular art installation of sacred music.
Thomas Tallis was one of England’s greatest composers and his piece Spem in alium numquam habui was considered one of the most extraordinary works of the Renaissance. Janet Cardiff, a Canadian installation artist, recorded each voice of the choir members of England’s Salisbury Cathedral singing this masterpiece and brought it, like the abbeys, to Manhattan for reconstruction. She positioned forty speakers around the edge of the intimate Fuentiduena Chapel, and on queue, forty voices came together in chorus. Cardiff wanted to ‘climb inside the music’ and so encouraged people to walk round the space to hear the individual voices or to stand centrally and experience the entire choir together.
I stood in the middle of the room, which was packed with people – children, tourists, grandmas, babies – and closed my eyes. The music was transcending, voices came in soprano from one direction and bass from another, rising and falling, singularly then together. In the heart of that beautiful chapel it was like hearing voices past and voices future, inspiring and joyous.
When the music stopped there was a silence for a moment. Then everyone seemed to realize where they were, people murmured to each other and there was the gentle sound of shuffling as they made their way out. It was quite a moment. Christmas had come early at the Cloisters.
Festive fog
When the temperature is transiting from 16*C to minus 3*C the view from here becomes a little foggy. Times Square is usually glowing on the left hand side back and the GE sign on top of the Rockefeller Center mid-right back is rarely out of view. Let’s hope Father Christmas remembers his fog lights…
Gramercy Tavern
A stir fry was just not going to cut it. Even though I didn’t have any hot leads on new and exciting restaurants, it was Sean’s 50th this week and time to go gourmet. Our old favorite, the Gramercy Tavern, was booked out – an excellent sign, so we waited-listed at the last minute with much positive energy and were rewarded with a timely cancellation.
The menu was full of endangered words like jaggery, kohlrabi and deckle, and I would have avoided the smoked trout, cipollini puree and pickled onions as much as the sea urchins, had it not been for the sigh of the waiter exclaiming it was the best thing on the menu. I didn’t have time to taste everything, so I took his word for it, and what a bonus that was. The trout was smoked in-house with elegant subtlety and served with an equally discreet onion puree and beetroot coloured onion rings pickled to perfection. Maybe it was the time lapse since I had enjoyed such a work of art, or maybe it was the happiness of the day, but there was quite a pause and a few photographs before I could bring self to actually eat it.
Not content with miracles just in food fare, I found the occasion of my husband’s birthday was also a milestone in the wine department. The Gramercy has an excellent list of wines by the glass, and in keeping with the locally sourced philosophy of the tavern, I tasted a sauvignon blanc from the North Fork of Long Island for the first time. It converted me. I am no longer a snob about American wine. Well, wine from the East Coast anyway.
I don’t know how Trader Joe’s is going to survive without my weekly purchase of the ingredients for stir fry. Unless they also have shares in my still favorite restaurant…
Dearest Jackie
The Christmas lights are on at the New York Public Library and the grandeur of the location is a fitting showcase for a tribute to President Kennedy on the 50th anniversary of his assassination. The small collection of papers and letters includes a most poignant and personal message to Jackie from Arthur Schlesinger, a close confidant of the president. Just viewing the handwriting somehow provides an emotional connection to the time and experience. It was amazing to see the actual letter, and to have the opportunity to connect with history. Jackie loved this city, and for watching over all the treasures that the library holds, she left the lions in charge…

































