The Governor’s Lawn Party

Even the sun could not resist the idea of 50 hammocks, unoccupied, just swinging there solo on Governor’s Island. And not just hammocks. The entire eastern end of the island has been transformed from navy stronghold to public park, with rolling green playing fields, forests of trees, and telephoto art dialed in for the season. With swings there are also swingers, and the annual Jazz Age Lawn party was about to kick off. So after days and days of rain and thunderstorms, the clouds parted and under sunny skies Sean & I packed a picnic and joined the flappers in the queue for the ferry…

The hive of hammocks I anticipated turned out to be more like a designers jigsaw puzzle woven through newly planted trees and the sturdy supporting trunks of older ones. Hammocks and swings were strung in and around roped structures that became a treasure hunt for the small and big bottomed alike. We scored a one-size-fits-all basket hammock that was hard to relinquish – or to get out of once in, especially when there was someone to push.

The music lured us on as Michael Arenella and his Dreamland Orchestra tuned in the brass. But the air traffic overhead was distracting, not only because it made a sculptural swarm of 30,000 plastic cups seem strangely real, but because the futuristic aircraft were flying low in synchronized sweeps across the harbour. From Governor’s Island to Ellis Island, around the Statue of Liberty and back again. The V-22 Osprey were an ominous sight and with the Australian PM in town, maybe the hardware was hosting a spin over the sights and the off-shore facilities…

In any case the music won out. The costumes were better than ever this year, a tribute to the industry and authenticity of the merchants in residence. Corey Miller from Prohibition Clothing was not only an extremely dapper man, but his knowledge of the dark dry days was diabolic. In fact Corey’s parents live in a community in Ohio that only recently legalized the sale of alcohol – and that was only because they wanted the revenue that was being lost due to the locals pursuing proofed refreshments across the county line. It turns out Prohibition still reigns in 10% of the country today. But that did not include Governor’s Island on the weekend. Mr Miller strutted his handmade holster fitted with a superbly stylish flask, and there was no shortage of juleps or Jack Daniels to fill it. With the music and dancing in full swing I couldn’t resist a small purchase, a badge that announced ‘the happy days are here again!’

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Mid town marvels

Every now and then, especially in midtown Manhattan, there is nothing quite like the joy of stopping to smell the roses, taste the strawberries and have a swing…

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Trifle and Triumph

Aunty Elaine would be pleased. One of the hot new favorites this summer at the Williamsburg food markets is trifle. Not the jelly-cake-custard combo of my childhood Sunday visits to the cousins, but a similarly wobbly mass, served in a huge transparent glass bowl with visuals to feed the anticipation ( or dread! ). The 2014 version from marketeers Butter & Scotch comes with an assurance of ‘tons of booze’ soaked in date cake and layered between caramel, butterscotch pudding and whipped cream. It seems bourbon may have been the key to the Kickstarter campaign that gave these retro retailers over $50,000 to open a dessert and cocktail bar in Brooklyn… And that was without adding bacon.

Bacon is the new must-have. Bacon on cupcakes, on mini cheesecakes, in cornbread and wrapped around pretzels. There are bruffins with chocolate covered bacon and salted caramel, and Dun Well Doughnuts with a french toast flavor. But some food at the market is so fantastic no fad could make it better.

The bread at the Pain D’Avignon stall is as hearty as the story behind it. A few years ago a group of young friends escaped the conflict in what was Yugoslavia and found their way to America, skinny and skint. One guy had learnt about making bread from a French baking book, and with only a small oven kept the fellows fed. Experiments to create artisanal bread from the old world led to a spontaneous entry into a bread show, accompanied with hand scrawled descriptions. As it happened, the buyer from the Waldorf Astoria Hotel was there, and on the spot ordered many dozens of loaves for the following day. It was an opportunity of a lifetime but with one oven and limited people power it would be a stretch to bake, even if they worked all night. However on the way home they encountered a group of Latino bakers ousted from their burnt-out work place. Eagerly the new recruits pitched their seasoned hands in with those of the Croatian, Serbian, Bosnian and Montenegro friends and together they worked to make the bread for the next day. The manager recounted this story with pride – they still hold the account for the Waldorf along with many others, and have outlets in the Plaza Food Hall and the Essex Street Markets. So swing by for a sourdough, leave the bacon for eggs and if you’re working with Auntie Elaine’s recipe, try adding bourbon…

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Memorial Day weekend

The Memorial Day weekend saw the city full of sailors, sales and the smell of barbecues. Mainly ours. From our midtown mezzanine we produced enough smoke to make pastrami, and as well as the crunchy black charr, the taste of the sausages was not far from it. But tomato sauce and sunshine can make all the difference, and there’s nothing wrong with pretending…

Pulling a few strings that afternoon in Washington Park was Ricky Syers, a puppeteer with a special gift for people and performance. He has made puppets for Superbowl commercials, transformed the lives of Greenwich Village locals, and made the day of many a passer-by. Not to mention dogs. Who could resist a cute little puppy that rushes to greet you, waits for you to throw the ball and then flies effortlessly through the air? There was much canine confusion, but Ricky, who creates his puppets from whatever is at hand, made no illusion about who his best friend really is – a polyester-anian!

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Travel the world through chocolate

Having the words chocolate and travel in the same sentence is a good start. But when you find them in palatable partnership it is even better. A quick errand on Madison Avenue this week turned into an international jaunt when my inquiring accent was recognized and rewarded with a Wooloomooloo – a macadamia nut dipped in milk chocolate and sprinkled with coconut. A lamington ( almost ) meets Haighs taste sensation. Then it was off to South America for caramelized banana and Jamaican Rum followed by a quick stopover in Japan for wasabi and ginger in dark chocolate. The Chicago born proprietor of Vosges went  first to France for technique and marketing tips, then travelled the world matching destinations and flavors. Katrina Markoff obviously loved Australia – in addition to Sydney suburbs she also offers a drinking chocolate of lemon myrtle and white chocolate. But she clearly did not make it to Port Lincoln. If she had there would surely be a caramello koala truffle with white chocolate pointers….

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Jjimjilbang

I have never felt so clean in my life. At the end of a hectic week I travelled with two Russian women from the heart of NYC to the fringes of New Jersey and found myself in Korea. At the 24 hour King Spa, as in the surrounding suburb of Palisades Park, most of the people are Korean, the signs are in Korean, the newspapers are Korean, and the food is Korean. So even before I stepped into the spa uniform of oversized pink t-shirt and shorts, I was in another world.

The women-only spa section was as frightening as it was enlightening. When I squelched between the steam room and the coolest of the geranium pools, the discretion of the massage area gave way to disquiet as the airborne attendants appeared to trampoline above their concealed clients. Wearing sensible black bras and underwear they were empowered in a room of nudity, and I sent out several silent pleas for a pacifist when my number came up. Too late! The smiling buddah face of a muscular masseur caught my eye and I was next…

“Nature’s tranquilizer” awaited upstairs to remedy any lingering pain. The amethyst sauna not only sobered and calmed but was a touch of Cooper Pedy in an international setting. Other igloo shaped saunas provided the healing qualities of heat through herbs, anti-aging gold leaf and energy soil. When it all became too hot there was the ice sauna, sleep or sustenance. Who could deny the temptation of eggs baked in a sauna so hot there has to be rugs placed on the floor so you can enter barefoot? Winters in NYC may never be the same. There is a free shuttle bus to the Spa every two hours from Korea Town on 31st and 5th, and you don’t even need a passport…

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Sweet Subtlety

What has long been a hallmark in the midst of increasingly hirsute hipsters in Williamsburg is about the meet a sticky end. Domino’s, once the biggest sugar refinery in the world and a working colossus on the banks of the East River is about to be dismantled. The heritage facade will remain and luxury apartments will eventually grow in the voided historical space. But for a very short time, there is an opportunity to experience the genius of Kara Walker’s art in the contextual reality of the cavernous confectioner. If you are in NYC between now and July 6th, put this on the top of your list.

The smell of sugar as you enter the space is unmistakable and as your eyes adjust to focus on the looming bright white woman in the distance, suddenly the ghosts of children past merge out of the molasses. Beautiful little African boys laboring under overladen baskets or clusters of bananas appear to be melting before your eyes. Some are made of resin, others of sugar, and all somehow smiling, owning the space. The politics of enslavement interwoven with the sweetening appetite of the world are hauntingly presented in these replicas – the mould for which Kara bought on Amazon… in 2014….

There is sugar everywhere, powdery and stained on every surface, and sticky underfoot. Sugar binds the whole visual experience together, connecting the past with the present. The sugar sculptures that used to be part of refined society in medieval times suddenly morph into a giant sphinx, a sugar moma that takes your breathe away. She is huge, commanding and glistening. Thirty five tons of sugar were poured over her frame and moulded around her fabulous features. What a spectacular sight! The sugar factory may be gone, but the spirit of this woman will always be there. Kara Walker said “I really like the idea of the allegorical, mythological sphinx as this woman-like creature or guardian of the city, the keeper of the riddle, the devourer of heroes.”

 

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Spring in NYC

The flowers are not the only thing blossoming in NYC. Bears came out of hibernation last weekend, bubble makers had children chasing past Amish picnickers in Washing Square Park, and a friendly duo swung rope for anyone who could jump. There was the entrepreneurial box for donations, but hey, this is New York, and this same spot last year helped a mobile piano player raise enough for a baby grand. Maybe with different babies in mind, flower children added their own  dash of color, oblivious to the season or anything else…

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A New York Moment

Some serendipity moments cry out for a caption. While I maneuvered to capture this one from the privacy of the rear, it occurred to me ( with gratitude! ) that when my parents go out to lunch they only have to take their wallet…..

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Roosevelt Island

Franklin D Roosevelt is considered to be one of the greatest presidents of the United States, so in some ways it is a little strange that in NYC his name has been stamped predominantly on a relentlessly busy highway and a mid-river island that for decades was home to the quarantined, the criminal and the crazed. Now there is a new memorial that marks the remodeling of Welfare Island to Roosevelt Island, and gives the cable-car ride from 63rd street or the bike-laned Queensborough Bridge across the East River a more promising push.

The Four Freedoms Park is freshly planted and paved. Sitting south of the ruins of the old smallpox hospital ( designed by the same architect that built Saint Patrick’s Cathedral ) the space has views down to the Williamsburg Bridge and across to the United Nations, where the official First Lady of Roosevelt’s Presidency oversaw the drafting of the Universal Declaration of Human Rights. The words from FDR’s ideology about freedom are predominant in stone, as is a massive bust of the man in all his glory. With respect, and building on the contemplation that the Park inspires, the block formation of the sculpture suggests another bust could later be added, that of Eleanor Roosevelt. Her contribution to the world is not so chiseled, but her words are equally wise and much quoted. The purpose of life is to live it, to taste experience to the utmost, to reach out eagerly and without fear for newer and richer experience… And then – completely unrelated – is my favorite… Beautiful young people are accidents of nature, but beautiful old people are works of art…

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