Lost Vegas

Our 10 days in Vegas were not typical. We didn’t get to the poker tables, Sean used an aqualung to swim in a three and half foot swimming pool, and at least 2 days were spent in a window washing cradle 60 floors up in the air. It was quite an adventure! With 10 principal models and about 30 extras, we shot a new campaign for Aria Resort and Casino in five different locations – the pool, the poker room, the sky villas, the fountain and the high roller Carta Privada.  Each venue had it’s own story of ‘Modern Seduction’ to be told in photography and film. But the sheer size of the resort with the vast distances to be walked front and back of house, meant my own story was more like old fashioned exhaustion. We shot 14 hour days along side the crews shooting American Idol, and the knowledge that J-Lo was in their lineup had the local punters looking twice at our models. It was all part of the razzmatazz of Vegas, the goldmine in the middle of the desert where anything can happen and dreams can come true.

In fact we shot with $2 million worth of jewellery, borrowed from the casino and accompanied at all times by a well armed guard, who allowed an earring to fall into the pool for the sake of that story, in which a fully dressed man leapt into the pool to retrieve the piece for a damsel in distress. Good grief, would you buy a $2M necklace & earring set if one of the pieces had been wet…?!? The Sky Villa we shot in cannot even be paid for, it is reserved as a gift for those high rollers who breeze into town and win ( or lose ) a million or so at the tables. The Villa has a gym and a barber’s room, it has a toilet with a lid that lifts when you enter the bathroom and warms when you sit. That will really make you feel better. The high roller room we filmed has a minimum bet of $500. The casino tokens on the poker tables have trackable microchips inside them so the house knows the minute one is taken off the table. ( Actually the hotel uses similar technology for the minibar in the rooms. If you lift a box of chocolates or a miniature of vodka, without immediately putting it down again, you are billed for consuming it… ) So it’s another world. All they need is your credit card. The real red casino dice I was given by Father Christmas in the staff canteen on my first day in Vegas feel great in my hand. I’m going to enjoy playing with them and only having to worry that my choices are going up a ladder or sliding down a snake!

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Getting certified in Miami

It may seem a little crazy to go all the way to Miami to become a certified scuba diver, but at this time of the year it would have been crazy not to. Apart from the temperature dipping to 4*C in NYC, we needed to complete 4 open water dives to gain accreditation. So sunny Miami looked like a good option, and would give us another opportunity to add a dot to the map on the kitchen wall.

I had always thought Florida was full of people who had retired – or who wanted to. How wrong could I be ?! By absolute chance I booked us into a dive shop ( run by an Australia so thought it must be good ) in walking distance from a hotel ( recommended by a hair stylist from a previous job ) which found us in the middle of South Beach. Think Latin, think Mardi-gras, think tropical party-mode and you’ll get the picture. Versace had a house ( which he was murdered in ) on this stretch.  There are art-deco lifeguard shacks on the beach, wall to wall bars selling ‘bulldogs’, a scary combo of 2 coronas perched in a giant cocktail glass, and music and people jiving until the early hours. So much for retirement!

The beach itself is long and wide with a healthy breeze off the sea and lifeguard shacks at regular intervals. The shacks are all individually decorated to fit with the look of the area – an opportunity afforded when Hurricane Andrew blew away most of the peninsular in 1992. Maybe it’s the transience that living in a hurricane zone instills, but there is a relaxed vibe in South Beach, it’s laid back and self indulgent. Even the police follow suit. Traveling along the road from the beach to the lagoon for a diving lesson, we encountered police cars at strategic places, sitting unmanned but casually monitoring the speed of the traffic. At Starbucks I encountered a woman with an outrageous handbag made of feathered rosebuds. When I asked her if she made it herself she purred ‘Armani’…. So it’s easy to see how fashionistas and eccentrics would fit right in here, and how the coffee guy would have no second thought about calling out ‘Versace…..expresso for Versace….!’

I had a particular interest in discovering Cuban food after learning that the Latin flavor of South Beach was primarily attributed to the influx of Cuban and Columbian immigrants. Pulled pork, slow cooked anything with peppers, onions and garlic, and deep fried plantain were typical dishes. But with limited time and a diver’s hunger, the best food we found was thin crispy pizza made by a Turkish New Yorker, tuna salad tossed by a surfing Frenchman and cold cider courtesy of an Irish pub. Maybe I’ll find that Cuban food in the Bronx on the weekend….

Our time was spent mainly in the company of our PADI instructor, who took us first to a pool to learn basic diving principals, and then to a lagoon to complete open-water dives when the wind proved too dangerous for diving on the reef. Laurent was a fastidious teacher, a Monsieur Poirot character, who had all the arrogance of the accent, but the same disclaimer that entitled him to a unique level of superiority. Struggling into my wetsuit ( the achievement of which I thought everything else had to be downhill ) I longed for the days of Mr RG Martin at the Ungarra Primary School where earnest attention and enthusiasm was everything. In the pool I suddenly had to learn how to be fish-like in breathing and in motion, but the combination of rubber suit, air hoses, waisted weights and three foot fins, gave me the dexterity of an oxymoron ( axolotl ? ) and Laurent was not amused…. It was even worse the next day when I inflated instead of deflated at the bottom of the lagoon and suddenly rocketed to the surface in a flurry of bubbles. That was actually a lot of fun and my lungs didn’t explode as he said they would. Even the giant iguana in the overhanging mangroves appeared to be amused…

But I did somehow manage to pass the various tests to become a certified scuba diver. So it was definitely worth the trip, and means I will now be in a position to hire the air tanks and respirator for our next underwater adventure. Opportunity is a wonderful thing…

 


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The way home….

For Sean’s birthday on the weekend we celebrated with cocktails in midtown and a superb meal in the Village. Here are two shots, the first looking up when we came out of the Campbell Apartment, the second, trying not to look up as we cycled home….

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Aria

That’s it, I doubt if I can ever cook lamb cutlets again! After going to the Aria Wine Bar in the West Village on Sunday and tasting their charr-grilled succulent chops, served with rosemary, gossamer thin garlic baked potatoes and an outrageously delicious balsamic jus, I have thrown in the towel. Of course they were New Zealand chops, but everything else was very Italian. The bread, even by itself was worth going for. Aria has small portions, designed to be eaten like tappas, which is great for tasting and sharing, and that’s exactly what we did. For starters we had a plate of fresh mozzarella with heirloom tomatoes and prosciutto. The mozzarella was actually burrata, a creamy variation that oozes with deliciousness when you cut the cheese open. Then the lamb, then Pappadella with a slow cooked ossobuco sauce. Magnificent. It was sweet and sticky, and made me think I may even have to go back to the drawing board with my pasta…. Good grief, and then there was desert…. I may never cook again.

The restaurant is open for dinner during the week and all day on Sundays. It’s casual in the sense that you can wear jeans and just pop in for a glass of wine and a quick bite. But there are too many good things on the menu to rush, and there is also the wine list to consider. All their wines come from female winemakers. An excellent boast. But that’s not all, they are very reasonably priced AND they’re open on Christmas Day…!

( Reservations +1 212 242 4233, 117 Perry Street )

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Cocktails from another era

I must have walked past the south east corner of Grand Central Station hundreds of times, always with a rush of people and city noise around me, and completely unaware of another world existing only a few steps away. That busy entrance takes you directly to the trains and subway, but if you venture just around the Vanderbilt corner, you will find a very unassuming marker with an arrow directing you through double doors to the Campbell Apartment. How subtle – who would suspect this was anything but a private entrance? Well, it was just that nearly 100 years ago, when a local banker decided he needed a substantial office in which he could also entertain, and found this to be the biggest ground-floor room in New York. Mr Campbell transformed the bare space into a magnificent cultural enclave with Florentine art, hand-painted ceilings and Persian carpets. I tell you all this, because as you pass through the looking glass from the craziness of 42nd street to the civility and peace of the room, you can almost hear the man begging the weary painters….”When will it be finished…?!”

Fortunately it was finished and fabulous when we joined the genteel crowd for a cocktail last weekend. The one carpet covering the huge 30 X 60 foot floor was still there, as was Mr Campbell’s ( locked ) safe, and comfortable chairs. Some people had just come from a show, others were having a martini before moving on for dinner. But you could feel the history and sense the joy of celebrations past. It was almost like a private party, with servers in jackets, an elegant hostess and that special feeling of being invited to a secret place. Maybe not so secret now!

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Thanksgiving

When I first came to live in America, I didn’t get involved with Thanksgiving. It seemed like a tradition of turkeys and pumpkins and craziness that I couldn’t identify with.

But things have changed and now I relish this time of giving thanks. We still don’t do turkey and pumpkins, but we celebrate the day with each other and close friends.

As the ( NZ ) rack of lamb and apple tarts await the hour, I would like to take the opportunity to thank everyone who listens to me in the early hours, who read my stories on the blog, and who share my adventures. Many thanks and many more!

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The road to Vegas

‘Going to Vegas’ has long been synonymous with ‘I feel lucky’ and Sean & I were certainly feeling lucky when we flew off to Vegas last week. We had just been awarded a fantastic job shooting photography and film for the newest and most spectacular resort & casino on the strip. The shoot is not until the weeks leading into Christmas, but we needed to scout the locations with the client beforehand, and the best time for everyone just happened to be the week of Thanksgiving.

People start their holiday transit days before the 4th Thursday of November in the hope of less chaos and more legroom. Arriving at Kennedy Airport at 5.30 last Monday morning, there was not so much chaos as there were just a lot of people. It took an hour to shuffle our way through security, undressing and dressing and being zapped by the x-ray. My heart went out to the turkeys! But we made the gate in the nick of time and apart from a peanut protocol ( a woman behind me was allergic, so all nuts in the rows in front and behind had to be removed ), the five and a half hour journey back in time was peaceful.

Sean & I had driven through Vegas a few years ago en route from LA to the Grand Canyon. My memory is that after a day of driving through a moonscape of dry, red rocky terrain, we entered the valley at the peak of sunset, and the skyscrapers of Vegas reflected the blinding light, making it seem like a goldmine rising out of the flat desert. It was spectacular. This time was different, we flew in over the Eiffel Tower, giant pyramids and New York skyline, but the sight of poker machines in the airport meant we could only be in one place – Vegas!

Las Vegas is another world, a fantasy land where you can forget everything else and just have fun. You can win money or lose it – glamorously. There is something for everyone – Kris Kristofferson, Janet Jackson and Sting were performing there this week, BB King and Frankie Valli were in town for their regular shows, and there were conventions for groups as extreme as the American Beekeepers Federation, the World Latin Dance Cup and the Single Action Shooting Society.

Then there is Aria, the place we have come to scout. Just as well we bought our walking shoes. At a cost of 8.5 billion dollars and covering 67 acres, Aria encompasses 150,000 square feet of gaming, 17 restaurants, 10 bars, numerous swimming pools and luxury accommodation. It is an awesome place – huge. Big enough to showcase sculptures of Thomas Moore and busy enough to require that the felt tops of the most popular poker tables are replaced every month. Can you believe that!?

For two days we looked at locations throughout the resort for our shoot. We relished the Boab trees and the Acacias around the swimming pools, we chose freshly made omelettes rather than biscuits & gravy for breakfast in one of the 1,000 seater restaurants, browsed the Elvis shop, and felt comforted by the fact that we could always buy the type of mattress we had slept in should we feel we couldn’t leave without it.

And just before we left to catch the red-eye back to New York, we had a glass of champagne. It was about 8pm so the drinking crowd hadn’t arrived and we had the black leather couches to ourselves. The music was loud and the waitress was almost dressed. That is to say, she was wearing just enough spandex so you couldn’t say she was naked. And what a smile! We felt this rounded our whole Vegas experience – no wonder the tag line says – What happens in Vegas, stays in Vegas’!

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Cafe Sabarsky

Trading favorite eateries with a visitor from Chicago last week, I drew a gasp from the woman when I admitted to not having heard of Cafe Sabarsky on the upper east side. She waxed lyrical about the pastries, about the importance of not ordering until the contents of the refrigerated display had also been considered, and then there were the eggs….. The eggs…?

So yesterday morning after riding from 36th to 86th & 2nd to stock up on cold-weather sausages and smoked bacon from Schaller and Weber, I cruised by the Cafe on 5th Avenue to see what all the fuss was about. One look and I was back on my bike pedaling for home. I changed from my shopping clothes to ‘dining in an Austrian Cafe’ clothes, threw on some makeup, roused Sean, and dashed back uptown to make it through the door before the 11 o’clock breakfast cutoff. We were somewhat breathless and red-nosed, but with thousands of people in town for the NY Marathon, we were not out of place. Fortunately the queue was short and we even scored the cosy corner booth. What a treat! The cafe itself is part of the Neue Gallerie, a museum devoted to early twentieth-century German and Austrian art and design. You enter through the 86 street entrance but the view looks out to 5th Avenue and Central Park. If you were to peer through the windows at the stylish ambiance, with wood carved paneling and dimmed lights, you might think the cafe were a private club or at least a genteel dining room. The waiters wear black waistcoats and long white aprons, the kitchen is hidden, there is a gentle buzz to the room and everything is just delightful. We had a lovely older man dining with his grand-daughter on one side and a Rasputin character drinking short black coffee on the other. It was all so civilized – and that was even before the food arrived!

Sean and I both ordered the Cafe Sabarsky breakfast. First we were presented with vienna coffee and a glass of fresh orange juice on a silver tray. Then the piece de resistance –  two soft boiled ( peeled ) eggs in a large martini glass, served with lightly toasted brioche and Bavarian ham, and a collection of breads and Austrian jams on the side. No wonder the Chicago woman gasped when I said I hadn’t heard of this place. The eggs were absolute perfection. So simple, just two eggs in a glass, culinary art.

If the chef can do this with eggs, imagine how spectacular the other Cafe specialties will be. Goulash soup with potatoes, handmade spatzle with wild mushrooms and tarragon, roasted sausage with riesling sauerkraut… Yes, there is a reason for winter!

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Spring forward Fall back

With the changing of the clocks on the weekend, signaling a line in the sand/snow/sunshine for the coming of winter, Central Park was ablaze with colour. In complete contrast, only two weeks ago there was such a violent icy storm that the Park had to be closed for safety reasons. Hundreds of trees were damaged – many because they still had leaves which cradled the frozen snow. With tens of thousands of people expected for the New York Marathon on November 6th the race was on. There was a scurry of activity as saws and mulchers buzzed through the 843 acres of horticultural mayhem. By the weekend, albeit still with many areas taped off, the show went on to break all records. And what a beautiful weekend it was…

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Doughnut Plant

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