This little light of mine

In Sugar Hill, named for the Harlem Renaissance, a building called the triple nickel used to be the home of Count Basie, Lena Horne and Paul Robeson –  and the heart of the jazz scene. Thanks to Marjorie Eliot it still is. Every Sunday afternoon for the past 24 years , Marjorie has invited strangers into her living room to share music in celebration of life. She plays the piano, another musician plays the trumpet, the flute, the bass or the sax. People sing, they read stories and they come in droves from all over the world. Deck chairs were originally set up in the music room, then the kitchen and the halls. It is a warren of rooms bursting with people who love jazz and can’t believe their luck. This is a special, special experience.

Marjorie opened her doors to the world as a way of turning sadness into joy when her son died in 1992, and other sons followed. There are photos and posters everywhere, but the performance is far from a requiem. She greets people as they arrive with an enthusiasm of long lost friends. The audience are essential, she said, they enable the glorious expression of our art. On the piano Marjorie’s familiarity with seemingly every riff on the scale means she plays with eyes closed, no sheet music, her spidery fingers dancing along the keys before suddenly withdrawing, only to hit a singular cord when the bass needs to breathe. Jazz!

Sunday afternoon was a particularly special day for Marjorie because an old friend and neighbor who brought people and energy to the jazz sessions, but who had left NYC for Turkey four years ago, was back for a visit. Marjorie played a special piece in her honor and the two women cried and laughed together at the end of the show. The Turkish woman was dismayed at the changes in her old city home and thanked Marjorie for preserving the ‘real Harlem – whatever that is!’. Perhaps it’s just a feeling, or a unique connection through time shared, but when the saints go marching in, you want to be in that number…

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Happy Australia Day!

My snow globe can take the rest of the week off. There is too much competition in the real world! Snow started falling this morning to initial reactions of joyful exuberance, and it has continued to sweep and swirl over the city all day. Earlier forecasts of 12 inches have already been buried, along with most of the cars on the street, and unless you want to get arrested, that’s where they’ll stay. The city is a white-out and, courtesy of the Mayor and Governor, has gone into lockdown, closing shops and theaters, suspending bus and train services, and with blizzard warnings through to tomorrow morning. Fortunately Sean & I have all the essentials we need, including a new jar of vegemite. It is Australia Day after all…!

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Titanosauria

It’s all about family relationships. At least that is how the dinosaur docent explained the workings of the dinosaur dynasty at the Museum of Natural History today. The Museum has had a full house all week, welcoming their newest arrival – as yet unnamed – and at 77 tons, the biggest ancestor on record. Nicknamed Titanosauria, this prehistoric pubescent  is so big he can’t fit inside the exhibition hall. When they find the parents, the museum will have to build a new wing. But young Titanosauria knows he’s a rock star. Peeking out at children coming in – or fleeing the exhibition, his toothy grin says it all.

The Museum of Natural History has the biggest collection of actual fossil bones on display  in the world. It is awe inspiring to be in the midst of so much history, and to witness the joy of young children seeing these creatures for the first time. It doesn’t matter that Titanosauria is a lego set of fibreglass castings – the original bones would be too heavy to hang anyway. It is more the magic of the discovery – in this case by a farmer in Patagonia, the excavation of the fossils by a former student of the museum, and then the display of these pieces ‘for a limited engagement’. I asked the docent to pose for scale with the giant fossils which he did with pride, saying that even if it takes a 100 million years to get to New York, it’s worth the wait…!

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Donuts and dough

‘Peter Pan’ is a fitting name for a sweet destination that never seems to change or get any older. But then as far as donut shops in NYC go, it is already old! Located in Green Point in Brooklyn, this bakery has been making donuts for over 60 years, and everything – the decor, the shelves, the signs, the Happy days uniforms – and perhaps even some of the customers, have not changed since the doors opened.

The area itself is something of a time and culture capsule. Hipsters have not yet drifted in, so the 4.30am opening at Peter Pans welcoming the last and the first working shifts of the day will hold for the duration. Down the street is Father Jerzy Popieluszko Square, and over the road Kielbasa / Sr-Kraut / Potatoe features on the menu of a busy diner. Polish is the first language for many of the residents – including the girls on the counter at Peter Pan. But the owners are actually Italian and recognizing Donna at the back of the shop from her documentary, I made my selection thoughtfully.

Donuts at Peter Pan are classic varieties – that is, cake, yeast, crumbs and cruller, with the most popular flavors being red velvet, chocolate sprinkles and sour cream. They are also classic is size and cost when compared to their Manhattan cousins. Three Peter Pans at $1.10 would equal the price of one Donut Plant, and apart from the latter’s delicious but ever diminishing ‘creme brûlée’, the same ratio would almost work for size. Three Peter Pans would also weigh against one Dough, although cost cannot really come into this comparison. Give me one Dough against three Peter Pans – or any number of Doughnut Plants any day. And that covers various flavors – chocolate, Hibiscus, almond – at least as of today, January 20th. NYC is constantly changing and using donuts as a currency means having to allow for market changes. In fact there is a new yet-to-be-tasted Donut Project in the news, introducing a maple bacon bar and a ricotta filled beetroot glazed donut. They may not have a sixty year potential but hmmmm, stay turned…

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Bibble & Sip

The new coffee is tea. Or at least tea flavoured coffee. At Bibble & Sip on west 51st street, the most popular trendsetting beverage is Matcha Jasmin Latte. That is, green tea jasmine-infused hot milk. And people think flat whites are strange! But while this combination may seem a little esoteric, there are visible signs that the cafe has hundreds of happy followers. The wall behind the expresso machine is completely covered with fully stamped reward cards. Hundreds of customers, thousands of purchases. So in the short time the cafe has been opened, tea coffees have become steeped in popularity. Unless of course the crowds have really come for the tea cake…

Tea cakes at Bibble & Sip are far from the traditions of the CWA. More literal than the classic Jubilee or sponge, earl grey and matcha are signature flavors transforming cream puffs and panna cotta. Not to mention earl grey infused banana bread and spiced pear scone with earl grey glaze. According to the owner, these delicacies define ‘bibble’ which means to ‘eat indulgently’. At another time of day I may have been tempted by an indulgent but tea-less pastry – the almond chocolate hazelnut croissant with salted caramel drizzle to be precise. But swinging past at cocktail hour last night I paused only to pick up a chocolate dipped, mousse filled puff for Sean and to see the latest in latte art. Matcha has provided an interesting new color palette for baristas, and I imagine that green swans are only just the beginning…

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The Hair Whisperer

Fashion-forward ‘scenesters’ be warned, after 50 years of settings trends in NYC fashion, Patricia Fields has decided it’s time to dress only herself. If the devil decides to wear something other than Prada, or Carrie Bradshaw and the girls get back together for another season of Sex and the City, they will have to find another stylist. Emmy award winner Patricia is liquidating her store and the colorful collection of wigs and wardrobe tchotchkes that have made her famous will be finding new homes. The bedecked boudoir, more like a gaudy costume gallery, is outdone only by her flamboyant staff. When I spoke to a particularly glittery employee about what would happen for him post-sale, he was unfazed – ‘This is New York honey, move on!’

Equally confident and entertaining were the hair stylists downstairs. Joey, the drawcard of my visit through his reputation as a hair whisperer, has made it his mission to turn ‘an ugly world into a prettier place’ one do at a time. He said that hairlines were not so much hereditary as they were outcomes of abuse, and that shampoo and massage could do wonders. Maybe there is a new presidential pouf in the pipeline. But the key to Joey’s success, as told by his offsider Creepy, was to not let his clients indulge in the nonsense of self doubt. Once you’re in the chair, it’s therapy time! I didn’t have an appointment and with a wait of at least three weeks, the store would be liquidated before my old hairstyle was in a similar position. So I’ll watch for the whisperer’s new spot and in the meanwhile continue my counseling with Esther…

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Happy New Year!

A moment to pause before unfurling the sails of 2016 in the breeze of new horizons…

Thank you for listening and reading and sharing the stories of NYC. This year my reports have danced between a tumble and a trickle, as Sean and I wrangle to transform our screenplay to celluloid between working on smaller projects and commitments at The Frick Collection and the Morgan Library. NYC is relentless throughout, providing inspiration in the everyday. There are people, music and events – always a story to tell, even if the recording of it sometimes eludes me. Like the panhandler on Park Avenue who upgraded his collection methods last week to a remote controlled doll. No doubt inspired by the new Star Wars movie, the clever R2D2 stopped traffic when she zipped around between cars, cup in hand. George Miller was somewhere in the traffic looking at locations for a still-mad Max. Then there was Gramercy Park opening it’s key-only gates this season for a balmy evening of public caroling. Who could resist the opportunity to be on hallowed ground, even when people with big hats and big ears commandeered the view? And best of all this Christmas, an invitation to the Lovelady’s Holiday Party. These showbiz superstars not only have the best name, but they have an Emmy from working on the muppets with Jim Hensen. Where else but New York could you meet the man who built Oscar the Grouch and puppeteered the original Muppets, with his wife tap-dancing on bubble wrap to create special effects? And just imagine their Christmas decorations…!

The final word on this year and as we go into the next, comes from Lucy who hangs with appropriate attitude in the Lovelady’s kitchen. Upps. 2016 is going to be a year of upps. These are exciting times and where ever you are, I hope we can share the adventure…

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Party time

The hottest ticket for the season was The Frick Christmas Party. Accompanied by a live quartet in the heart of the Collection, this legendary celebration rolled out 4 suckling pigs, a yard of smoked salmon and a bar stocked with everything except red wine, all in the midst of Rembrandt and Bellini and the envious exchanges of Moore and Cromwell. It wasn’t simply pot luck, some staff went to extraordinary lengths with their contribution – or the remains of it – and the spirit of generosity in this special place was more than just a seasonal splurge. Days later ‘cookie day’, a tradition started by two long time staffers 20 years ago, saw the dynamic duo bake hundreds of colorful confections for the entire 200+ staff. Not surprisingly, the curators have written odes to the bakers, while others have started preparing parades of potted pickles and Christmas has arrived at The Frick.

Santa-con was a little overwhelmed by spirits of Christmas past this year. While the appearance of the red suits was anticipated, less expected and much more interesting were the carolers on the balcony of The National Arts Club in Gramercy. Riding by on an almost summery evening it was a delight just to stop and listen. Similarly, Charles Dickens put in a fine performance at the Morgan Library. He read from his original handwritten script of The Christmas Carol making the begrudging Scrooge more life-like than we might have wished. Fortunately there was an angel on stilts to create a little diversion.

There is no snow, at least not yet. This New York Christmas is unlike any I have experienced before. But what a time. Last week an elderly lady, scarcely known, and now with generosity forever remembered, spontaneously presented me with a box of famous Plumbridge chocolates. The original store was doorbell-access only and has long been relocated from the plush upper east side to Connecticut. The chocolates were a precious gift and channeled the old New York along with the hope of the new. Just like The Collection, the city is forever evolving and full of special gems…

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Fantasy shopping

What better place to breakfast, or to pick up a few last minute diamonds for the holidays than Tiffany’s…?! My Christmas list has long been finalised, but it was worth popping in this week just to see if there was anything worth adding. The piece named for the place, The Tiffany Diamond, has only been worn by two women, the wife of the CEO in the fifties, and of course Audrey Hepburn. She was photographed for the film with the last Mr Tiffany before the title was lost and the stone reset. These days the diamond has center stage in the store, having last been for sale ( for 24 hours only ) in 1972 for five million dollars. Since then there is no price tag – like many of the sparkling stones in surrounding settings – but the cheerful staff are happy to answer questions from the hundreds of curious tourists pouring through the door just to look. Apparently people do actually buy diamonds. But for some of us, the window displays outside are far more romantic – especially if you have a coffee and croissant…

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Sleeping on the job

With corridors of conifers, perfumes of pine and fabulous firs, NYC is dressing for the season. On street corners all over the city, Christmas trees that have been trimmed and tethered just for this occasion wait for their chance to shine. It may be transitory but it’s for more than 15 minutes and it’s organic, so by the time this year’s magic become next year’s mulch, there will have been much to celebrate.

Our local festive forest on 19th street is powered 24 hours a day by workers who have travelled from Maine to Manhattan for the season. Sleeping in mobile transport, these cheerful young enthusiasts know everything about Christmas trees. According to them the trending top seller is the Frazier Fir from North Carolina because it’s needles have the best staying power in the overheated apartments of the city. Good to know. And the reason NYC has such a profusion of pines this time of the year is because of the ‘coniferous tree exception’ dating from 1938, which allows vendors to set up and sell from the sidewalk during December without a city permit. All they need do is have the permission of the adjacent storeowners, and keep a passageway open for pedestrians.

The glorious unseasonal weather we are currently enjoying in the Big Apple ( it will be around 16*C this week! ) means it feels more like an Australian-style Christmas than usual. Not that I am not partial to hot cider and snow flurries. But for the itinerant workers selling Christmas trees, I suggested, moving forward, that there are more comfortable places to sleep on the job Down Under. The season for mangoes may be over in Darwin but the rest of the country is ripe for the picking…
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