Papabubble

A few years ago a couple of Sydney-siders moved to Melbourne after learning  the sweet trade from an aging artisan on the north coast. Christopher King and Tommy Tang ( with a name like that you would just about have to open a lolly shop ) were so successful with their novelty custom designs of brightly coloured pulled sugar that they went worldwide. Barcelona, Hong Kong, Tokyo, Amsterdam – New York!

The Broome Street store last week was full of tempting Easter configurations. Even if you didn’t first realise that all the gorgeous bunnies were edible, as soon as you stepped inside you were stuck. Samples are offered generously and those girls can make anything out of sugar – wedding rings, personalised lollipops, a pair of teeth, a full size look-a-like birthday girl – whatever you want and they are all works of art. Many of the flavours are natural or made with essential oils, and the detail is amazing. What starts as a mass of sugar, a great rolling pin of color, is crafted into delicate miniatures that you can’t resist. It’s like magic – if I didn’t see them being made I wouldn’t be interested, but these lollies are the story-book kind that can’t possibly be bad for you…

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The Easter Bonnet Parade

There was a spirit of joy on Fifth Avenue today for the Easter Bonnet Parade. The tradition of emerging from Sunday Mass and strolling along in your finery may have modified slightly over time, but the essence is the same. So many people went to so much trouble to dress up and share the day. There were professional milliners showing off their skill, puppeteers, families, dapper gentleman, couples out for a stroll in their Sunday best, a few sorry bunnies with a little commercial interest, some French visitors loading up on Lindt to take to friends, but mainly it was people having fun. Just look at all those smiling faces! Fifth Avenue was closed off from 44th to 57th Streets and it was packed with paraders swanning along and posing for photographs. I think my favorites were the April showers and May flowers, but it was a tight call. Apparently even the Cardinal from St Patrick’s Cathedral hoped he would be in the running for best hat….

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really cross buns

I was tempted to hold back on the awarding of the best Easter buns in NYC for 2013 when I saw the potential of pecan and green peppercorn hot cross buns at Bien Cuit on Christopher Street. The buns were a festive addition to the cafe’s regular temptations like sweet maple yam danish, and artichoke and goat cheese croissant. But the poetry was in the writer not in the baker, and the proof was in the pudding. Blackened and crispy, the buns were no match for Amy’s. Try again next year. But there was joy in the coffee, which dissolved months of winter lethargy in a few strong sips and inspired an energized afternoon of bike riding. So much so that we earned a second cup at Smile to go in the midst of hipster land around the corner from Crosby Street. That part of town where Chinatown fuses with Soho is full of surprises – cafes, fashion houses and galleries. In true New York style you find the most interesting people – in this case a fellow biker who introduced himself by saying he met his third wife in a similarly crammed coffee shop. Bruce also told the story of a weekend ride that bought him face to face with a deer at 40 MPH, and after 10 days in hospital at a cost of $116,000 he is still in litigation with the deer’s attorney. I’m not so sure about the wife…

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Easter favorites

My annual hunt for the perfect hot cross bun has not been in vain. Maison Kayser may not have put themselves in the race, and Breads Bakery are cooking for a different holiday. But you can always rely on Amy’s, who not only provides a perfectly moist fruited bun, but who reminds us that there are plusses and minuses to everything. I don’t know if it was the apprentice who iced the very distinct message but I got it and the buns were delicious too. The idea carried with me to the Macy’s flower show that is now so popular they house it in a huge tent in Herald Square rather than in the store itself, and the queue goes on forever. But the good news is that there are flowers to see in the magnificent window displays while you wait, and of course once you get inside you know Spring is here. What more could you ask for, except perhaps an old Easter favorite….

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Horsing around at Grand Central

When I saw that Nick Cave was involved in an unique performance of dancing horses at Grand Central Station – Heard NY – I immediately thought it would involve rock and roll. Wow, that would be quite an event! But it wasn’t Nick Cave of the Bad Seeds, it was Nick Cave the American performance artist, the man who trained as a dancer with Alvin Ailey and who brought a colourful herd of raffia horses to Vanderbilt Hall this week as part of the Station’s 100th birthday. The horses were true to the themes of Mr Cave’s work, they were extraordinary colorful sculptures that made noise when they moved – their raffia costumes rustled as they first grazed and then galloped with harps and drums setting rhythm in the background. It was spectacular, each mount having it’s own personality, playing to the children and the cameras in the audience. After much prancing the horses were immobilized, hoisting their costumes onto a stand to pose until the dancers returned to give them life for the next race. Just imagine the performance if the two Nick Caves got together…?!

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Outrageous Opera

Perhaps not surprisingly, there are very few bike racks outside the Metropolitan Opera in NYC. For the traditional opera subscriber, concert attire would usually preclude being able to climb onto a bicycle and pedal off to the show. But with temperatures still hovering around freezing – albeit with glorious blue sunny skies, layering up and cycling through Times Square traffic is a perfect way to prepare for a spirited afternoon of ardor and angst. For Sean and I it was a ride of much anticipation, not only were we going to the Met, to see La Traviata, but the bill included Placido Domingo…

The opera house itself carries the spectacle of Austrian crystal chandeliers, plush red carpets and staircases that sweep up and around, with restaurants and bars providing views and vantage points. Lunchers made an early start to meet the 12.30 gong, but many people also brought their own. As we shuffled to find our spot in the packed house, there were as many plastic bags as there were plastic surgeries – the diversity of opera lovers apparent in the detail. Of course it was a matinee full of regulars in their regular seat. People chatted familiarly with the usherette, they rustled the wrappers on their snack bars and drank Poland Springs. But that was not to take away from the event or the environment – that’s New Yorkers out on a Saturday afternoon, feeling at home and happy.

Forty three years ago, Domingo sang his first Alfredo in La Traviata at the Met. Today we saw him debut as Alfredo’s father in the same opera, but with a dramatically different style. The first act was in three colors – black white and red. Red was the colour of Violetta’s dress, black were the suits of her suitors, and white was the whole stage behind her. It was fantastically sparse, dramatic and effective. The only prop was a gigantic clock that teased her with the passing of time. A few square couches and swaths of fabric added colour to the second act but not enough to take away from the graphic boldness of the stage. I loved it. Diana Damrau was an outstanding Violetta, the tenor playing Alfredo was sweet but was overshadowed by the enormous enthusiasm of the audience for his superstar predecessor. Personally I fought – unsuccessfully – the prejudice of rich memories from years ago, driving the straight line from Alice Springs to Darwin accompanied by the three tenors and the unforgettable emotion of Domingo’s voice…

At the end of the performance there was a stereo of opinions accompanying us down the stairs. It seems the starkness of stage that I so enjoyed was not necessarily the general feeling. ‘Outrageous!’… ‘When I come to the opera I want classic!’… ‘Outrageous!’… ‘They did it with Madame Butterfly, Carmen, and now with La Traviata!’…”Outrageous!’…           I just think it’s marvelous that you have access to such remarkable artists and performances in this city. On a regular Saturday afternoon you can pop into the Met and see the best in the world. And then you can feel free to review the show loudly on the way out – or get on your bike and ride home on a high – Alfredo, Alfredo, di questo core non puoi comprendere tutto l’amore….

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Sweet rendezvous

Leading the well heeled crowd and the curious to Bergdorf’s yesterday was a leopardskin woman and her fashion conscious best friend. While they set the standard for the store’s buying demographic, anyone who slips though the spinning doors at the iconic Fifth Avenue destination will be warmly welcomed. So I felt no hesitation in following the furs, pausing at the sparkling counters, and perusing the table top glitz on my way to the chocolate department on the seventh floor. This is a store that specializes in things you don’t really need – chocolate included – but the joy of colour and calories gave me pause. So too did the discovery on the way to the elevators of an exquisitely hidden salon with views over Central park and an afternoon tea menu worthy of a princess. Grace has been there, as has Jacqueline and perhaps our Mary. I just need to dust off my silver slippers and book the prince…

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St Patrick’s Day

It wouldn’t be St Patrick’s Day in New York without corn beef and cabbage with the fighting sixty-ninth! While much of the city is swamped by revelers reminiscent of New Years Eve, the Armory on Lexington Avenue becomes a focal point for the extended family of the 69th Regiment. Originally Irish immigrants filled the ranks of the brigade, and this heritage is celebrated every Saint Patrick’s Day when the regiment marches from the official parade on Fifth directly to the Armory. There are pipe bands and soldiers and much ceremony, but the great fun is in the mess hall, where the walls carry the stories of past battles and old soldiers never die. The murals were painted by artists during the Great Depression and the atmosphere is heightened by the music of tin whistles and kettle drums. All you need then are some iridescent green eyelashes, green hair, or even a green mustache, and of course a Fitzgerald to make the report…

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No longer empty

When a gallery doesn’t publish a telephone number and has a name like No Longer Empty, there is not much 411 can do to help you find it. They don’t understand my accent at the best of times, and on this occasion tried connecting me to an attorney… But it was worth persisting through the ring roads of Long Island City because the exhibition in the newly inhabited Clock Tower was a real find.

‘How Much Do I Owe You’ is an exploration into the meaning of currency, value and exchange at this time of financial flux, growing debt and job insecurity. There were multiple artists presenting their work in different mediums, and what created a context from the outset was that the Clock Tower used to house a bank. The massive safes, stark architecture and lack of toilets paid homage to the past, but the artwork was current and thoughtful. In one vault there was a short French film using dancers to personify the emotions of a Wall Street banker falling from grace, in another there were fresh herbs struggling to survive while oxygen masks dropped down from the ceiling. Children were asked to draw in their own bank notes to give their take on money. One artist covered a whole wall with ( fake ) Chinese lottery tickets. I really liked the two businessmen shaking hands as though to seal a deal, while their ties gave away the true sense of their business together.

But my favorite was the conversation raised about giving and taking and the parallels made with debt and surplus. For your sharing of information on a purple or yellow piece of paper you could choose a badge that said things like patsy, giver or guilty. I felt I was certainly guilty of receiving a great bounty in my life, but this is more of an emotional surplus rather than a financial one, and by this I didn’t really consider myself contributing to the world’s debt. In fact, in the spirit of recovery and moving forward, Sean placed an Australian $5 note on one of the plates serving money in the exhibit near the entrance. By the time we were ready to leave it was gone. What an irony. Maybe this balances the books – Australian currency is strong after all – but it doesn’t really matter. It’s only money.

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Back to school

There is something very delightful about a classroom that you enter voluntarily and find a menu on the board instead of lessons. R G Martin would be proud – although I’m a long way from the Ungarra Primary School, and he has no doubt retired from a generous career of inspiring students to be curious and conscientious. But the smell of chalk and those desks with the shelf underneath for storing books or hiding licorice takes you back, and that was the case on Saturday when we visited the M. Wells Dinette in Queens.

It was worth the bike ride. We set off over the 59th Street bridge, which provided a magnificent view up the east River and over Roosevelt Island. Without leaves on the trees, the island looked lonely and my plan to ride around the preserved remains of the NYC Lunatic Asylum were delayed for a greener day. So we freewheeled downhill into another world – Queens – quickly turning into Jackson Avenue where artists and artisans are making their presence felt.

The M Wells Dinette is housed inside MOMA PS1, a modern art institution that commandeered the space from a deserted public school, and sits over the road from a more visual one. The graffiti opposite is astonishing, like a gallery turned inside out. The artists have to make a reservation to get a spot on the wall, and any professional photo or video crew need permission to shoot from the street. By contrast MOMA had huge empty spaces, but the rush of people were not there for the graphics – they were there for lunch!

Walking into the dinette was a little strange – in the first place because you enter at the pass, where chefs call and waiters collide and plates rush past brimming or bare depending on their direction. In the second place, when you walk into the room everyone is facing toward you expectantly. I was tempted to introduce myself as the new kid, but then our waitress appeared, and I sat abruptly. She had blue hair and wore a totally transparent bright yellow top, black leather shorts, lacy stockings, short boots and a look that would make even the toughest kid hand over their lunch. Taking a photo would have been a stretch. When we announced we only wanted coffee and pastries her response made me think we should make a run for it, but we were saved by the bell. The pastries and coffees were outstanding, 10 out of 10, the rest of the staff were friendly and we’ll go back.  A classroom that has whoopie pie scrawled on the blackboard menu has to get some marks for trying…

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